I have often heard about folks who travel coast to coast in the United States…you know…from the east to the west…New York to San Francisco…that kinda thing. I did think of doing a road trip in the US at one time…in fact…I still think it would be something I would like to do before I die. The idea of facing one ocean today…and a completely different ocean a few days later is kinda neat! To me anyway!
Even though that sounds like a grand idea…it is a real drag because I am located in Singapore…and taking a flight all the way to New York just to do a coast to coast road trip sounded too much like an overkill to me. The next best thing has to be a coast to coast trip in Malaysia. Yeah, I know….I can always do a coast to coast trip in Singapore! Drive from Changi to Tuas….but hey…what’s the thrill in that!???
So…to cut a long story short…well…shorter anyway…I decided to do a coast to coast ride in Malaysia today. The plan was to get in via the Woodlands Checkpoint, ride up to Mersing, then cross over to Kluang, head south and east to Pontian, then back to Singapore via the Tuas Checkpoint. In fact, this would be a coast to coast to coast trip! I would have covered the Straits of Johor, the South China Sea, and the Straits of Melaka all in one day! Wow!!! Here is the route that I planned for the day.

I had originally wanted to loop the state of Johor with this ride. However, bearing in mind that Johor has quite a long circumference, I thought it was better to curb my riding ambition and do a slightly smaller loop. After all, I was not gunning for an Iron Butt certification! Furthermore, I wanted this to ride to be a relatively relaxing one, with enough stops built in for stretching. I thought it would be important to maximize the amount of daylight I had for this ride as well. So with this in mind, and with the route burnt (albeit very lightly) in my brain, I decided that I would start early in the morning, head over to my mechanic’s place for a quick check on the bike, and then set off.
Nothing characterizes a good plan better than the amount of flexibility built in to cater to Murphy’s visits…and by now…I was very familiar with Murphy’s standard operating procedures. As anticipated, Murphy chose to visit the night before I set off…because I went to bed much later than intended…and ended waking up a little later in the morning. Hahahaha! All is not lost though because of the quality of the plan! So I changed my early morning plan and put in a slot for breakfast (while my mechanic looked the bike over). See…adaptability and flexibility at its best!!!
I had gone through the Woodlands checkpoint several times before on my bike (and countless times with my car). So I was pretty confident that it would not be a problem. What I did not anticipate was Anker‘s extra width given the boxes and crash bars…and how this would affect my ability to clear the very narrow space between all the cars stuck in the huge jam at the Johor side of the Causeway. This resulted in a very near fall! However, through some miraculous stroke of quick reflexes (read luck), I was able to avert the fall…and managed to pull a muscle on my right thigh…cramping it up all the way till I cleared immigration. I was not about to bow to Murphy!!!
Having mastered the art of splitting (basically, riding in between two lanes with cars stuck in traffic), I made my way confidently along my intended route. It was a fine day…about ten in the morning…not too hot…and a good breeze blowing on me as Anker cut through the traffic on the roads of Johor Bahru. I was enjoying the ride tremendously! I remembered the last time I rode on this route with Marley and could immediately feel the difference. While Marley gave me a huge sense of adventure, his engine throbbing and pulsing away, working tirelessly to get me on my way, Anker was hardly breaking out a sweat! I felt the smooth delivery of power and acceleration as I twisted the throttle. It was a strange experience…a little less rugged, a little smoother…and I still had that same smile pasted on my face. Yeah!!!
It wasn’t too long that I made it pass the city limits and started riding on the narrow and winding roads of route 3 towards Mersing. If you have never ridden, or driven (for the matter), on route 3, you owe it to yourself to do it. This is a very nice and easy stretch of road to ride…as long as the traffic is not too heavy. So take a day off in the week and do it…you will not regret it! What is more, you get to enjoy the distinctive Malaysian countryside…and the fantastic Bak Kut Teh along the way too! I made a short rest stop shortly after passing Kota Tinggi for a break.

I must have looked rather strange to some of the folks at this place because they kept looking at me. Maybe it is my Robocop outfit…maybe it is my bike…but most likely, its my messy hair. Hahahahaha!!!
Small droplets of water started forming on my visor not too long after my rest stop. Yes…it was beginning to rain. I debated if I should stop and put on my rain gear. It did not take long for me to conclude that I will stop…because the very light drizzle was quickly turning into a light rain…and I could see the dark and menacing clouds over at the north west. So I stopped at the side of the road and put on my gear…which took all of ten minutes…and proceeded on. The downside to this was that all the big lorries that I passed along the way passed me while I was putting on my gear…so it was another round of fun passing for me!
While the rain got heavier, the traffic got lighter…obviously…since I passed all of them. Hahahaha! Eventually though, I made it to Mersing, a small town that was once a fishing village. There was a huge trailer truck that broke down at the roundabout just outside the town centre…and I could see lots of cars stuck there. Good thing I was on my bike!!! I headed straight for the coast…and parked at a small parking lot next to the beach.

I had been to Mersing several times before but was never in this part of town. All my previous trips here were to catch a ferry out to one of the many islands that dot the west coast of Malaysia for scuba diving. So this place was new to me. The more meticulous reader would notice immediately that the rain has stopped…so I decided to take a look at the beach. Now this is no ordinary beach. I was about to gaze on the South China Sea…and boy it is a BIG sea! So I was rather surprised with what I actually saw.

No, your eyes are fine…and no…I did not put up the wrong photograph. This is REALLY the South China Sea you are looking at. I was expecting a BIG sea…with rolling waves that would splash at my feet and with spray that would cover my face like a fine mist. But no…the tide was out…and I was confronted with a huge expanse of sand and mud pools. Oh well…I did see the rolling waves and all that…they were just a kilometer out! I bet you can see it in the picture if you squinted…or scroll down to the end of the article and click on the link to the larger images in my gallery! Hahaha!!!
Still, the sea breeze did not let me down and I felt immediately refreshed. Looking around, I saw a couple of stalls set up at the beach and decided I would do a little exploring. What I saw was rather interesting…it was like Old Chang Kee done Malay kampung style! With all sorts of fried items like squids, prawns, banana fritters and all that. Guess what this was!

Yup…Kampung Fries!!! Now what do you think this next one was?
Edit: According to an informed source, this was actually not Kampung Fries but Keropok Lekor (a fried fish fritter that is taken with a sweet and thick chili sauce)…hmmm…now I wish I had tried this! Hahahaha!!!

Believe it or not, this actually was a yam drink! Now as far as I remember, yams were tubers that had dirty (obviously since they are roots!) skin and white flesh. Why this yam drink (and the yam ice cream from Swensen’s) was purple was beyond me!!! I was intrigued though…so…

…I ordered one. Hahahaha!!! I was wondering how it would taste…would it taste yammy? Powdery? Overly syrupy? Or was it simply grape juice mis-represented? I am happy to report that it tasted YUMMY! It tasted like how a yam drink would taste like…not like I would know…but now I do! So next time you head to Mersing, be sure to head to the beach and look out for this makcik and order her Air Keladi! I also had the prawn, squid and banana fritters…they were ALL super yummy. Definitely a must try…especially the banana fritters as it comes with a dip that made it WAY BETTER than any goreng pisang (local for banana fritters) I have ever had…and oh so unique!!! To top it off…I had this fantastic view to accompany me as I enjoy the food!

I did some research about food places (yes…food again) in Mersing before I set off for the trip…after all, this was to be my lunch stop…and I was eager to search for a particular seafood restaurant that came highly recommended in a few blogs. The place was called “Lok Tien Seafood Restaurant” and was located along Jalan Abu Bakar (which was kinda like the main street in Mersing). So I rode off looking for the place. I found it after looping around several times. Unfortunately, they were closed that day because of a wedding. So I went in search of another place that was recommended: “Al Hamid Chendol”. Apparently, they served the best chendol in the town. I found it just around the corner from Lok Tien. I decided to give it a miss though as I wanted to avoid the possibility of an unsettled stomach since I still had a long ride ahead. So I ended up on my third place…Sri Mersing Cafe. This cafe specializes in coffee and pastries. It seems they grind their own beans right at the shop…and the roti kaya (bread with coconut and egg jam) is supposedly the best as the bread is baked fresh everyday. I was really glad I found the place…and ordered my usual kopi-o-kosong and roti kaya. Yum yum yum!!!

It was two in the afternoon by the time I was done with my lunch of snacks…and I was not even halfway through the loop! It was time to move on and head towards Pontian. The ride to Pontian would take me through several towns…a major one called Kluang and two small ones called Rengam and Layang-Layang. The route would take me through some scenic plantation roads and I was really looking forward to it! So after looking at the map (copied to my iPhone as I did not want to incur data roaming charges), I headed off!!!
The first few turns were easy enough to follow. However, I missed one of the turns rather soon after I set off from Mersing.

This deviation from plan turned out to be a rather pleasant one as the road (though relatively short) was nicely filled with turns…and almost empty!!! It was such a nice ride! The scenery was like something lifted off a postcard for the most part of the next hour…until a point there I made my next mistake. I turned left when I should have turned right. As you can see from my original route map above, there was no indication (or maybe there was but I could not see it in the map) of a right turn…so I thought I was somewhere further along. However, it was a short detour which took me into a kampung which was not altogether unpleasant…just a little wasted time. I made it to Kluang eventually and it was a BIG town. Some parts of Kluang reminded me of Kuala Lumpur!!!
This ride wasn’t about big towns though. So I rode through the town after a short stretch break and headed towards Rengam. You would know that you are in Rengam…there was no mistaking it…because there is a sign that says Rengam…hahahahaha!!! But more spectacularly…there are two short stretches of beautiful road! The trees lined both sides of the road and the canopy covers the road completely like a majestic arch! It was so beautiful all I could do was marvel at it…forgetting even to take a photograph!!! So you gotta head there to see it for yourself…sorry! On top of that…I was greeted by a herd of cows shortly after…taking up half the road! Hahahaha!!!! How absolutely rustic!!!!
Continuing down the road brought me to Layang-Layang…another small town. I used to travel by train from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore and was always intrigued by the smaller railway stations that were in the outlying towns. The route from Kluang to Layang-Layang was running next to that particular railway track and I was really looking forward to seeing one of these small stations. I spotted the one in Layang-Layang…with a train waiting to leave!!! So I made a quick stop and got up close and personal with the train. Hehehehe….
Just so you know I did not cheat…

I had a quick chat with the driver…and he was very obliging…

…and he asked me if I rode a Superfour! Hahahaha!!! I could not resist taking a head shot of the locomotive…

I really like trains…can you tell??? I ended my conversation with the driving by asking him when the train was leaving…and he said…now. True enough, he pulled out within a minute after saying that. Wow!!!
I did not check my map at this point for some reason…and ended up missing a right turn…which led me on a rather long ride that ended at a guarded gate into an oil palm estate. No pictures…but you can see from this map that it was quite a long ride!

Now this was one of those roads that I would much rather be on with Marley than with Anker. It was full of ups and downs…potholes…and puddles!!! Still, Anker handled it all really well! So…after backtracking…I found the turning that I missed…complete with a road sign that had its entire middle section blown off! Hahahaha! Malaysia Boleh!!!
I have always said that getting lost was a pleasant thing. After all, how else would I discover new places if I never got lost? Right??? And so I promptly missed another turn not long after this. Hahahaha!!! But I am really tempted to eat my own words this time round!

I don’t know if you can see from this map…but the turn that I missed took me through several towns rather than through the recreational forest…and it was around five in the evening…which meant rush hour!!! My goodness…it was no fun riding in traffic like this! There were cars, bikes, trucks and people everywhere…going everywhere…squeezing everywhere…it was quite maddening! PLUS…it was a MUCH longer distance to Pontian!!! Being the persevering person that I am (yes…I am persevering…didn’t you know?)…I soldiered on and eventually…made it to Pontian…the other coast of West Malaysia!

I headed straight for the coast and found many tables lined up outside right next to the water…so I decided to have my dinner there. I had some time to kill while waiting for the food and so I thought of you folks and took a photograph so you can have a sense of the view that I was witnessing.

Unfortunately, the cloudy sky meant that I did not get that spectacular sunset shot. Still…it was a fantastic vista! I did manage to get another shot after dinner though…because the scene looked even better!

And in case you were wondering where I had dinner…

It was a corner restaurant right at the coast called SF seafood. What does SF stand for? Well…I think it stands for Shun Feng (顺风) which means “favourable wind”. I guess it was fitting that I had my dinner there since I did have some “favourable winds” during the ride!
It was dark by the time I left Pontian and I headed back to Singapore via the second link. I was really thankful that I installed some spotlights on Anker as they came in REALLY handy in the super dark roads that took me back to the second link. Boy…those LED spotlights were BRIGHT!!! Wooohooo!!! The ride back on the second link was nothing like the one I had with Marley during the West Malaysia Loop Ride 2010. At that time, I did not have enough lights…and I did not have enough speed for the expressway. This time round, I not only had the lights…I had enough speed to ride comfortably and safely on the expressway…and eventually made it back to Singapore at half past eight! Not bad for a day’s ride looping the state of Johor…and covering three coast lines!!!
Come join me next time!
Note: See larger versions of the photographs here!